November gardening tips

Published 12:03 am Wednesday, November 2, 2016

If you were lucky enough to have a gardening season, it’s time to start preparing the garden for next year. By planning and learning from what happened this year, next year will likely be more successful. Design outdoor areas and facilities to be modified easily with your changing desires.

A November application of fertilizer can be beneficial to a lawn of cool season grasses. However, if your lawn is drought stressed, you might want to wait until a rain to apply fertilizer. It promotes root development without excessive top growth. With a strong root system, your lawn will be better able to withstand drought conditions next summer.

Small low spots in the lawn can be raised by carefully removing the turf and filling in the low spot with good topsoil. Remove the turf by cutting two inches deep into the lawn with a flat-bladed spade, then angle the blade under the sod to cut it free, keeping at least two inches deep to get most of the roots. After filling the low spot, replace the sod, and keep it well watered until it is reestablished.

After several killing frosts have occurred this fall, cut back dormant perennials to about three inches above ground.

After the ground is frozen, plants can be mulched to guard against displacement due to soil heaving. These steps ensure a successful show of plant foliage and color next season.

Tulips and Dutch iris need to be planted in cold soil so they do not send up shoots before roots are established. If tulips are planted deeply, they will produce large, uniform flowers for many years. Deep planting also makes the bulbs less susceptible to mouse and squirrel damage.

Peonies can be planted now in full sun and fertile, well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Set the tubers so the buds are one to two inches below the soil surface. Backfill, firm the soil and water thoroughly.

Peonies do not grow well after being moved and will not bloom for several years.

Check newly planted trees to be sure supporting wires or ropes are still covered by hose so they will not damage the trunks in windy weather. Cut away suckers from the base of lilacs, forsythia and crape myrtle.

Erect wind breaks to protect newly planted evergreens, especially tender, broad-leaved types, such as Japanese holly and camellia. The best way to prevent winter damage to shrubs is to select hardy species before buying and planting. It is better to select hardy species in the first place than to attempt to protect tender plants later.

If there is any evidence of scale on trees and shrubs, spray with dormant oil in late fall and again in early spring. Avoid transplanting shrubs and trees on sunny or windy days. On these days, the roots are exposed to too much light or drying winds, putting undue stress on the plant.

If you use manure as a soil conditioner, apply it now and till it under. Manure can be a source of weed seed but composting before application can reduce the number of viable seeds.

Rough plow or spade garden plots containing heavy, clay soil. Add organic matter and lime if indicated by a soil test. Leave the soil rough — winter’s thawing and freezing will break up the clods and kill some of the insects and slugs overwintering in the soil. A rough soil surface also catches more moisture and reduces erosion.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact Brenda Jackson at Murray County Extension, (706) 695-3031, or email bljack@uga.edu.